Posts Tagged ‘women’


Pattern Drafting 101 – The Basic Bodice Sleeve Block

19 July, 2010

So, I’ll admit, I kinda dropped the ball on updating this week. No excuses, though, so here it comes. All the updates from the past week. One right after the other.

First up, the Set-In Sleeve block. This pattern is going to be made to fit, and thus will be based on, the Basic Bodice Block you made in the previous post.

You will need paper, a pencil, a ruler, and a french curve.

* ** *** ** *
Because the original measurements are metric, and their US standard equivalents would be near impossible to accurately measure (1/5 of an inch?), I’m going to stick with the metric measurements.
* ** *** ** *

Step 1: Trace on the top of the bodice block, from the base of the armscye, up. You can do this either by copying the shape to a new large piece of paper or cardboard, or by using a tracing paper overlay. Be sure to include the point labels; you’ll be needing them a lot.

Step 2: Extend Point T vertically so that it passes through point Y, touching the edge of the armscye.

Step 3: Mark the point above point T one third of the total armscye measurement, not the half armscye measurement we were using before on the main bodice. Label this point AC.

Step 4: Draw a new line horizontally at the level of point Y, midway between points T and AC.

Step 5: Mark the point where the line from Y crosses the left-most edge of the armscye curve. Label that point AD.

Step 6: Mark the point halfway between points T and Y. Label that point AE. Draw a very short horizontal line across to the ARMSCYE curve and mark the intersection. Label that point AF.

Step 7: Measure the length of the ARMSCYE curve between point AF and point X at the top – not the length of the straight line connecting points AF and X, but the distance ALONG the curve. To do this, drape a small piece of string along the curve and then measure the length of the string when it is straightened out.
Now, add 1 cm to this (for bust sizes 94cm-107cm, add 1.25cm. For bust sizes above 107cm, add 1.5cm.) Zero the ruler at AF, and pivot the ruler until this length meets the horizontal line at AC. Mark the point at the intersection point AG.

Step 8: Measure the distance again along the curve between the point AD and Point I at the top of the left part of the armscye curve.
Add 1cm to this distance (1.25cm for bust sizes 94-107cm, 1.5cm for bust sizes larger than 107cm.) Zero the ruler at point AF, and pivot the ruler until the intersection with the horizontal line at the Y level corresponds to the length just calculated. Label this p‌oint AH.

Step 9: Measure the distance from Z to AF along the curve. Subtract 0.3cm. Zero the ruler at point AE, and pivot the ruler until the intersection with the horizontal line that passes through point T corresponds to the length just calculated. Label this p‌oint AI.

Step 10: Measure the distance from AD to Z along the curve. Subtract 0.3cm. Zero the ruler at point AH, and pivot the ruler until the intersection with the horizontal line that passes through points T and Z corresponds to the length just calculated. Label this p‌oint AJ.

Step 11: Drop a line vertically from the summit point AG. This line will be the length of the sleeve measurement, taken from the top of the shoulder to the wrist. Mark the end point AK.

Step 12: At this point in construction the basic bodice you traced earlier is no longer needed. Go ahead and erase any of the unused lines and points. They won’t be shown in any of the diagrams beyond this point, just to keep things clear and easy to follow.

Step 13: Drop a vertical line from points AI to the horizontal line passing through point AK. Mark this new point AL. Drop another vertical line from point AJ to the same horizontal line. Mark this new point AM. Draw a new horizontal line from AL to AM.

Step 14: Draw in a curve from AI to AH, hollowed below the diagonal by a maximum of 0.75cm.

Step 15: Continue the curve above the line from AH to AG, raised 1 cm at maximum deviation. Make sure that the curve flattens to the horizontal as it passes through point AG.

Step 16: Continue the curve downwards to point AE, passing 2 cm at maximum deviation above the line connecting AG and AE.

Step 17: Finish the curve of the sleeve head, dropping it below the line connecting AE and AI by 1 cm at maximum deviation, and making sure it approaches the horizontal at point AI. Note that the sleeve head shape is asymmetrical – this is as it should be.

Step 18: If you wish to introduce some shaping into the sleeve, you may narrow the sleeve by a distance of from 1 to 3 cm on each side. This is completely optional. If you do, mark your new points AN (1-3cm in from point AL) and AO (1-3cm in from point AM)

Step 19: Lower the sleeve edge curve by 1 cm on the section between AN and AK (the back section of the sleeve). Raise the sleeve edge curve by 1cm on the section between AK and AO (the front section of the sleeve).
*If you chose to skip the shaping, replace “AN” with “AL” and “AO” with “AM”

Step 20: This is the final outline of the sleeve. The waist line on the bodice block marks the location of the elbow on the sleeve.

Ta-Da! You’re done! Enjoy the endless possibilities your new personalised sloper will bring!


Great Things to Do with Men’s Dress Shirts…

19 May, 2010

… other than, you know, give them to a guy and make him wear it. You know, silly stuff like that.

But in all seriousness, almost everyone has either a man in thier life who will, inevitably, outgrow a dressshirt, or have one shrink on them, or will, for some reason, get rid of one. Yeah, you could send it to a Salvation Army/Goodwill/Thrift Store, but why would you when you can put it to a much more fun and immediate use?

This week I bring to you the “What to Do with an Oversized Men’s Dress Shirt” collection, courtesy of the internetz.

Women’s Ruffled Top by Carly J. Cais at Threadbanger

Refashioned Men’s Top #3 (Shirley Pintucked Tunic) by CleverGirl

Refashioned Men’s Top #2 (Babydoll Top) by CleverGirl

Refashioned Men’s Top#1 (Women’s Dress Top) by CleverGirl

Peasant Blouse by MadeByLex

Belted Skirt by Christine Haynes at CraftStylish

Super Cute Babydoll Dress by Chic Steals

Adorable Child’s Halter Dress by Gezellig-Girl

Toddler’s Dress by Cheytown at Craftster


Open Source Unmentionables!

16 May, 2010

Yeah, I don’t like the sound of that either…

Today, I bring you DIY underwear. Yeah, you heard me. Underwear.  You know, the one article of clothing that everyone needs and most crafters (myself included) don’t even think to make? Yeah, here’s a heads up: you can make those.

I think my favorites have to be Colette Patterns’ free Madeline Mini-Bloomers.

Colette Pattern's Mini Bloomers

Made from a yard of fabric, elastic and ribbon, they’re really simple to make: really, the only skills required are the ability to run a straight stitch and to be comfortable working with elastic and buttonholes. I’ll probably make a pair for myself soon! The pattern is available for free through the Colette Patterns’ website.

Got any old t-shirts lying around that don’t fit or you just can’t wear, but you can’t find the heart to throw out? (Yes, you do.) Well, now, with a little work, you have really cute, one-of-a-kind panties. has a free downloadable pattern for bikini-cut underwear that’s great for everyday wear- just scale the pattern piece to correspond with your hip measurement.

SuperNaturale's Kitty Tee Panties

This guy here at get’s the award for A) having the most varied collection of FREE underwear patterns I’ve ever found- for both women AND men, and B) for writing relatively easy to follow tutorials in thier non-native language. Mad props to you, sir.

This place has it all- every style and flavor you can imagine is here, with free pattern (designed to be printed on A4 paper- you may have to do a bit of slicing and dicing in Photoshop to get them to fit on multiple sheets of 8.5 x 11 paper.) up for download.

How To Make Underwear

Basic Lined Bikini-cut Panties

“Big Soft Panties”

Simple Unlined Bra

Woman’s Camisole Top

Classic Men’s Boxers

Men’s Boxer Briefs

Classic Little Boy’s Briefs

Classic Little Boy’s Boxers

Classic Little Girl’s Panties

Little Girl’s Swimsuit

Not-So-Classic Men’s Bikini (can easily by modified to fit a woman)

Men’s Pink Lace Thong (can easily be modified to fit a woman)


And what about bras? What if you’re someone like me, who suddenly discovered one morning that she, in fact, wears a 34C (not the 34B she’d worn the previous WEEK) and lives in the middle of nowhere. In case you were unaware, they don’t sell 34C’s in the Middle of Nowhere Wal*Mart. Or maybe you’re like my roommate, the rugby-playing LARPer in a 35B- 34’s are too small, even on the widest setting, 36’s are too big, even on the smallest settin, or like my friend in a 32E…

How is it that women can actually buy bras anymore?! And why would you want to, at $10-$15 each for a cheap one?

This is a rant I go off on a lot. Thanks to Threads Magazine, however, you won’t have to hear it.

The Bra Dilemma Solved!

Okay, so it’s not the be all and end all of bra sewing. It’s just some pointers and construction notes, and where to find these purchase patterns.

THIS is the be all and end all of bra sewing… and underwear sewing… and pajama sewing… and lingerie sewing… and I could go on and on. This is a pretty extensive list of free patterns- bras, underwear, camisoles, robes, slippers, teddies, nighties, slips and boxers.

75 Free Lingerie Sewing Patterns

Congradulations, I have completely rocked your world. You now have absolutely no reason to ever go bra or underwear shopping again. Ever.

Unless, you know, you like that sort of thing. I’m not gonna judge.